Tea enthusiasts around the world are often left wondering why certain teas come with such a hefty price tag. According to Yeung, a tea expert, the astronomical price of some teas can be attributed to several factors. Firstly, the quality of the tea leaves plays a significant role. Tea leaves must be grown without the use of pesticides, which is already a rare quality in itself. In China, where many teas are produced, farmers often grow tea bushes close together to maximize yield. However, this practice can lead to high moisture levels and pest infestations, making it challenging to find tea leaves grown without pesticides due to soil contamination from past pesticide use.
Furthermore, the potential for aging and developing complex flavors over time adds to the value of certain teas. Puer tea, for example, is known for its sensitivity to its environment and the need for proper storage conditions to maintain its quality. Yeung discovered a vintage Puer tea that she estimates can be aged for several more decades, similar to aging a fine wine.
The process of extracting the best possible flavor from tea leaves is akin to the art of winemaking. Just like fine wines, teas go through a process of opening up and evolving with each brew. Yeung describes the evolving flavors of Puer tea, from oaky notes to fresh and vegetal flavors with hints of soybeans, almonds, lime, and citrus, culminating in fruit and floral notes.
In addition to Puer tea, other types of tea derive their value from labor-intensive processes required to produce them. At Lai Ching Heen, a Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant in Hong Kong, tea sommelier Kelvin Mok Ka-kit showcases Tai Ping Hou Kui green tea, known for its distinctive appearance and clean, mellow flavor with notes of orchid. Another rare tea, Pingyang Yellow Broth, undergoes a complex smothering process to produce a tea with a rich, viscous texture and a sweet, mellow flavor.
The market for rare and expensive teas in Hong Kong is evolving, with a growing interest in premium teas among both locals and visitors. Despite challenges in educating consumers about the value of rare teas, tea experts like Mok and Chan remain hopeful about the future of tea appreciation in the city.
Ultimately, the high prices of certain teas can be attributed to factors such as low-yield cultivation methods, labor-intensive processes, and the belief in the healing powers of tea. Whether it’s the aging potential of Puer tea, the labor-intensive production of Tai Ping Hou Kui green tea, or the purity and health benefits of wild teas, each tea offers a unique and valuable experience for tea enthusiasts willing to explore the world of premium teas.