Michael Zee, the author of Zao Fan: Breakfast of China, embarked on a journey that led him to unexpected discoveries in the heart of China. His adventure began when the restaurant he planned to visit was closed, prompting him to book a hotel for the night and return early the next morning to capture the shot he desired. Little did he know that this detour would lead him to escape a lockdown in Chongqing and stumble upon a whole new world in the mountains of Sichuan.
During his travels, Zee encountered unique culinary practices that showcased the ingenuity and creativity of Chinese food culture. From witnessing a husband-and-wife team making plum blossom cakes using a homemade crane to discovering a woman making tofu with a crystal, Zee was captivated by the traditional methods and flavors he encountered. One particular highlight was experiencing douhua, a tofu pudding made with crystallized gypsum, which he described as textural and gritty, paired perfectly with spicy cold dishes and white rice.
In his book, Zao Fan: Breakfast of China, Zee not only shares recipes but also provides QR codes that offer a glimpse into the private kitchens of ordinary people across China. Through these videos, readers can witness the artistry and expertise of those who prepare the dishes, highlighting the importance of breakfast in Chinese cuisine. Zee emphasizes the significance of morning meals, often overlooked in Western culinary traditions, and showcases the craftsmanship and labor that go into creating simple yet delicious dishes.
One of the innovative recipes featured in the book is Zee’s creation of coffee eggs, inspired by traditional tea eggs but infused with Yunnan coffee for a modern twist. Additionally, Zee explores the breakfast items of the Xibonese people, offering recipes for milk skin, salty milk tea, and Xibonese bread, among others. He also delves into the world of dim sum, tracing its evolution from Guangzhou to Hong Kong and back to mainland China, where it is gaining popularity as a symbol of Hong Kong cuisine.
As Zee navigates the diverse landscape of Chinese breakfast culture, he sheds light on the evolution of culinary traditions and the impact of cultural identity through food. Through his book, Zao Fan: Breakfast of China, Zee invites readers to explore the rich tapestry of flavors, techniques, and stories that make up the breakfast experience in China. Published by Bloomsbury, this book serves as a tribute to the artistry and innovation found in the morning meals of a nation steeped in culinary history.