Michael Zee, the author of Zao Fan: Breakfast of China, embarked on a journey that led him to unexpected discoveries in the heart of China. After encountering a closed restaurant in Guizhou, he found himself escaping a lockdown in Chongqing and exploring the hidden gems of Sichuan. This serendipitous turn of events allowed him to stumble upon unique culinary experiences that he had never imagined.
One of the most fascinating encounters Zee had was with a husband-and-wife team who crafted plum blossom cakes using a homemade crane and a metal tray of coals. Additionally, he witnessed a woman making tofu with a crystal called gypsum, a mineral that has been used in China for centuries to coagulate soy milk. The douhua (tofu pudding) made with crystallised gypsum left a lasting impression on Zee, describing it as textural and gritty, complemented by spicy cold dishes and white rice.
In his book, Zao Fan: Breakfast of China, Zee provides a recipe for making soy milk and douhua, along with QR codes that offer a glimpse into the process of making tofu with gypsum. This innovative approach to blending travel with cooking allows readers to explore the private kitchens of ordinary people across China, showcasing the expertise of those who create these traditional dishes.
Breakfast, often considered the most underrepresented meal of the day in cookbooks, takes center stage in Zee’s exploration of Chinese cuisine. He emphasizes the importance of morning meals and the craftsmanship involved in preparing them, highlighting the speed of cooking, dough handling, and labor-intensive processes that go into creating simple yet flavorful dishes.
Through his book, Zee sheds light on the innovation and efficiency of Chinese breakfasts, showcasing dishes like jidan hanbao (egg-stuffed pancakes) inspired by fast-paced urban lifestyles. He also introduces his own creation, coffee eggs, a twist on traditional tea eggs that reflects the emerging coffee culture in China.
Furthermore, Zao Fan: Breakfast of China delves into the diverse breakfast traditions of the Xibonese people and explores the evolution of dim sum culture in Hong Kong and mainland China. Zee’s meticulous research and personal experiences offer readers a comprehensive look at the rich culinary heritage of China, from age-old techniques to modern adaptations.
In conclusion, Zao Fan: Breakfast of China is a captivating journey through the vibrant and diverse breakfast traditions of China. Michael Zee’s passion for food and culture shines through in his exploration of hidden culinary gems and innovative recipes, making this book a must-read for anyone interested in Chinese cuisine and the art of breakfast.