The evolution of Chinese diasporic food writing has been a fascinating journey, with a new generation of authors bringing their unique perspectives and experiences to the forefront. Cookbooks by authors such as Jon Kung, Hetty Lui McKinnon, and Kevin Pang not only provide recipes but also delve into the authors‘ identities and relationships with their Chineseness.
Historically, Chinese cookbooks in the United States and the UK have been influenced by waves of Chinese immigration. From the first American Chinese cookbooks in the early 20th century to the popular Chinese takeaways in the UK during the 1950s, Chinese cuisine has become ingrained in Western culture. Authors like Buwei Yang Chao and Betty Crocker played significant roles in making Chinese home cooking accessible to a wider audience.
In recent years, authors like Hetty Lui McKinnon have embraced their cultural heritage through their cookbooks. McKinnon’s „To Asia, With Love“ combines traditional Chinese home cooking with Australian influences, creating a unique fusion of flavors. Similarly, Jon Kung’s „Kung Food“ explores the concept of „third-culture“ food, blending different culinary traditions to create inclusive and innovative dishes.
The Covid-19 pandemic has led to a surge in cookbook sales, with authors like George Lee and Joanna Hu and Rosheen Kaul gaining recognition for their innovative approaches to Chinese cuisine. These authors challenge traditional notions of authenticity and explore the diversity of Chinese cooking.
Despite the progress in Chinese diasporic food writing, challenges remain. Authors like Su Scott highlight the limitations faced by „ethnic“ writers in expanding their repertoire beyond their cultural cuisine. McKinnon emphasizes the importance of giving Chinese authors the freedom to write and cook beyond stereotypes and expectations.
As international travel resumes post-pandemic, we can expect to see a wider spectrum of food writing, encompassing technical manuals and cross-cultural exchanges. The diaspora cookbook will continue to have a place on the shelf, celebrating the rich tapestry of Chinese cuisine and identity. Through storytelling and culinary exploration, Chinese diasporic food writers are reshaping the narrative of Chinese cooking in the West.