The global second-hand clothing market is booming, with expectations to double to $350 billion by 2027. However, despite the popularity of thrift shopping and the rise of sustainable fashion, textile waste remains a massive problem. Much of the unwanted clothing from the West is shipped off to the global south, causing environmental and social issues in those regions.
One striking example of this issue is the Kantamanto Market in Accra, Ghana, where nearly 8 million pounds of used clothing arrive every week. The influx of garments not only overwhelms the local infrastructure but also pollutes the country’s beaches and waterways. Similarly, in Chile, a mound of discarded clothes the size of the Brooklyn Bridge accumulates in the Atacama Desert, highlighting the scale of the problem.
In response to the damaging effects of textile waste, a growing number of menders, sewers, and upcyclers are turning back to traditional practices to preserve the lifespan of clothing and keep garments out of landfills. These individuals are not only reducing waste but also reviving age-old techniques and passing down valuable skills to future generations.
One such advocate for sustainable fashion is Iickomique Belmontes, a „green“ artist based in Chicago, who leads mending classes in partnership with Emmanuel Edwards, the owner of the Goody Vault vintage store. Together, they teach participants how to mend and upcycle clothing using traditional methods and materials. Edwards, who has a deep familial connection to mending and quiltmaking, emphasizes the importance of using resources wisely and extending the life of garments.
The mending series at the Goody Vault is just one example of how individuals and organizations are bridging the gap between secondhand clothing and upcycled fashion. With the Environmental Protection Agency estimating that a significant portion of donated clothes end up in landfills, there is a growing need for sustainable alternatives to fast fashion.
Black Girls Sew, a nonprofit organization based in Brooklyn, is dedicated to teaching children the art of sewing and mending. Founder Hekima Hapa emphasizes the importance of using existing resources and passing down valuable skills to future generations. Through thrift store field trips, sewing workshops, and community donations, Black Girls Sew is actively combating the negative impacts of fast fashion and promoting sustainable practices.
In the face of alarming predictions about the future of textile waste, upcyclers and sustainable fashion advocates are leading the charge in educating communities about the importance of mindful consumption and textile preservation. By extending the lifespan of garments and giving them new life through mending and upcycling, individuals can significantly reduce the environmental impact of the fashion industry.
As Emmanuel Edwards aptly puts it, „We can’t stop people from buying, but at least buy smart.“ By choosing secondhand, mending, and upcycling, individuals can make a positive impact on the environment and contribute to a more sustainable future for fashion.