The anticipation surrounding Phoebe Philo’s upcoming eponymous line debut at the spring/summer 2024 fashion shows was palpable. After leaving Céline six years prior, Philo had become somewhat of a mythical figure in the fashion world, with many eagerly awaiting her return to the spotlight. Despite not having unveiled any pieces yet, her presence loomed large over the entire fashion news cycle, with designers nervously wondering if their collections would be overshadowed by her much-anticipated digital drop.
As the fashion world awaited Philo’s debut, other notable changes were taking place within the industry. Sarah Burton announced that the spring/summer 2024 collection would be her last for Alexander McQueen, adding to the sense of transition and change in the air. Similarly, Gabriela Hearst was also departing Chloé, while new creative directors were set to take the helm at Gucci, Tom Ford, Helmut Lang, and Carven. These shifts raised questions about diversity and representation within the fashion industry, with a lack of female and BIPOC designers in top creative positions at major fashion conglomerates like LVMH and Kering.
Against this backdrop of change and uncertainty, designers played it safe with their spring/summer 2024 collections. The color palette was notably muted, with black and white dominating the runway and only a few bold pops of red breaking through the subdued tones. The trend of body positivity, which had gained momentum in recent years, seemed to have taken a backseat, with a return to more traditional and uniform body types on the catwalks.
Overall, the spring/summer 2024 fashion shows reflected a moment of transition and introspection within the industry. As designers awaited the debut of Phoebe Philo’s highly-anticipated collection, questions about diversity, representation, and the future direction of fashion loomed large. With changes in leadership at major fashion houses and a shift towards more subdued and traditional aesthetics on the runways, it remains to be seen how the industry will continue to evolve in the coming seasons.