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Shein’s fast fashion approach removes it from the second-hand textile trade: NRC

The second-hand clothing industry in the Netherlands is facing a major crisis, with prices dropping by more than 30% in the first half of this year. Exporters are pointing to the rise of ultra-fast fashion and the loss of key markets in Ukraine and Russia as the main reasons behind this decline.

Charles Graft, director of Sympany in Assen, which collects, sorts, and exports second-hand clothing for 67 local councils, expressed his concerns about the current situation. He mentioned that there is a surplus of second-hand textiles with no one willing to purchase them. The Russian-Ukrainian conflict has significantly impacted the industry, leaving traders without two important markets to rely on.

Lennert Vermaat of industry body Vereniging Herwinning Textiel highlighted the threat posed by the increasing popularity of cheap and poorly made textiles. He explained that the demand for second-hand clothing outside of Europe, particularly in African countries, is decreasing due to the availability of affordable new clothing from ultra-fast fashion producers like Shein and Temu.

In the Netherlands, approximately a billion items of clothing are sold each year, with 55% of discarded clothing ending up in landfills. The remaining clothing is either recycled, exported, or incinerated. Sympany is struggling financially, with Graft admitting that they are losing money every month. Some local councils have already agreed to stop receiving payment for their clothing donations.

The impact of the crisis is evident as Ada Textiel Recycling in Maassluis has been forced to close its doors, resulting in the loss of 30 jobs. Graft is hopeful that the government will intervene to support the sector, although he is concerned about the negative perception of textile waste exports, especially in countries like Ghana.

Despite the challenges faced by the industry, Graft emphasized the importance of recognizing the significant amount of clothing waste generated within the Netherlands itself. He stressed that over half of the clothing in the country is incinerated, highlighting the need for sustainable solutions to address the growing issue of textile waste.

In conclusion, the second-hand clothing industry in the Netherlands is at a critical juncture, grappling with declining prices, loss of markets, and increasing competition from fast fashion brands. It is essential for stakeholders to work together to find innovative solutions that promote sustainability and support the long-term viability of the industry.

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