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The Identity-Inspired Cantonese Roast Meat Restaurant Rice Service in Berlin

Kenneth Lam and Thu Thuy Pham, co-founders of Rice Service, share a unique bond that goes beyond business partnership. Both individuals have a Southeast Asian ethnic background but grew up in Europe, which instantly connected them. Lam, who was born in the UK to Hong Kong Chinese parents, invited Pham to his family home in Northampton where his father would cook for them. This shared experience of food, eating, and upbringing created a familial connection and a sense of community between them.

After graduating, both Pham and Lam pursued careers as fashion photographers, but they felt that something was missing. Pham sought ownership over her commercial work, while Lam felt lost despite being published internationally. The turning point came with the onset of Covid, which brought about a rise in racial prejudice against Asian faces in the West. This prompted Pham to reflect on her identity and upbringing, particularly her family’s experience running takeaway shops near Berlin in the 1990s.

Meanwhile, Lam delved into personal projects in Hong Kong during the pandemic, exploring his identity and heritage through photography and storytelling. His project „Lychee Pickers“ gained traction with magazines and restaurants, showcasing the everyday activities of villagers in Shan Pui Tsuen, his father’s village. This deeply personal work led Lam to realize the power and soul in storytelling through food, prompting him to join Pham and Thao Westphal in Berlin to launch Rice Service.

Pham, along with Westphal, co-founded Dashi, an Asian diner in Berlin, inspired by European-influenced food in Asia. Dashi aims to reclaim what their parents couldn’t do, as they had to adapt their food for a Western audience. Similarly, Lam draws inspiration from his father’s recipes for Rice Service, infusing the menu with traditional Cantonese dishes passed down through generations.

One of the highlights of Rice Service is its roast meat offerings, particularly roast duck and pork, which are served in lunchboxes for solo diners. The restaurant also caters to Berlin’s large vegan and vegetarian population by offering a roast tofu option. Pham emphasizes that they shy away from labels like „authentic“ or „fusion,“ preferring to offer dishes based on their own interpretation and creativity.

The co-founders‘ shared background of working in restaurants, waiting tables, and chopping vegetables has shaped their approach to Rice Service. They aim to blend their culinary heritage with creative storytelling, creating a unique dining experience for their customers. Rice Service, located in Berlin, is currently in its soft opening period, offering lunch service from Monday to Saturday.

In conclusion, the journey of Kenneth Lam and Thu Thuy Pham, along with Thao Westphal, from fashion photography to culinary entrepreneurship, is a testament to their shared passion for food, storytelling, and cultural identity. Through Rice Service and Dashi, they are reclaiming their heritage and sharing it with the world, one dish at a time.

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